Guide to Oris Watches: History, Innovation and Key Collections
In this Guide to Oris Watches, we discover the fascinating heritage of this accessible Swiss brand. An independent company, Oris continues to innovate, constantly pushing the boundaries of watchmaking, raising the bar and setting new standards. Not only this, Oris has a social conscience. Climate neutral since 2021, the brand continues to invest in conservation and sustainability projects. In this guide, we investigate how and where it all began. Also, we look at Oris’s key collections and the innovations that set them apart from other brands. Finally, we furnish you with all you need to know before you buy an Oris (because trust us: you’ll want to).
Guide to Oris: How it all Began
1904-1950’s
The story of Oris begins in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein (where it remains to this day). Paul Cattin and Georges Christian purchase the recently closed Lohner & Co watch factory. They name their company “Oris” after a nearby brook and initially manufacture pocket watches. Within just six years, Oris has grown to become the largest employer in Hölstein with over 300 employees. The company builds houses for its staff to attract the workers it needs. By
1929, Oris is making wristwatches. Also, it has expanded to six factories and is manufacturing almost all of its own parts.
1927 marks the beginning of a new era. Georges Christian passes away and Jacques-David LeCoultre becomes President of the Board of Directors (Jacques would later go on to to form Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1937). In 1928, Oscar Herzog, Christian’s brother-in-law, takes over as General Manager, a position he will hold for 43 years.
1938 sees the launch of the Big Crown, Oris’s first watch for pilots (more about this iconic watch later).
Inevitably, WWII resulted in a downturn in sales and Oris turned to the production of alarm clocks during this time. Post war, the business expands and in 1952, Oris launches its first automatic watch with a power reserve indicator – the highly accurate calibre 601.
1960’s and 1970’s
The 1960’s were a golden period for Oris. 1965 sees the launch of the state-of-the-art divers watch today named ‘Divers Sixty-Five’, after its re-release some 50 years later. In 1967, Oris also unveils its first chronometer – the Oris Calibre 652. By the end of the decade, Oris is one of the 10 largest watch companies in the world. With numerous factories, they were producing 1.2 million watches and clocks per year and had over 800 employees.
However, in contrast to the success of the 1960’s, the 70’s were a difficult decade for Oris. The brand becomes part of ASUAG, the forerunner to Swatch Group. As the Quartz Crisis grips the Swiss Watch Industry. Oris, no longer independent, endures a difficult decade during which production plummets and staff numbers dip from 900 to only a few dozen.
1982 – Return To Independence
With Oris in a state of decline, Dr Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog lead a management buyout in 1982. On his frequent visits to Japan, Herzog observes a newfound passion for mechanical watches. Recognising the influence the Japanese have over global trends, he introduces a new business vision: to become the global leader in mechanical watches with special movements at competitive prices. Oris have never made a quartz watch since.
In the following years, Oris forges ahead with innovative products and inspirational partnerships (notably with the Williams Formula 1 team). In 2002, the Red Rotor is patented as a trade mark. This symbolises the Oris philosophy to produce high-quality, Swiss Made mechanical watches with real-world functions at accessible prices.
Guide to Oris Watches: The New Standard
Oris is well known for developing its own in-house movements. However, in 2020, Oris launched the calibre 400. Quite simply, it’s a game-changer. An automatic movement with a five day power reserve, it has elevated levels of anti-magnetism. Consequently, it is offered with a 10-year warranty and recommended 10-year service intervals. Read more about the calibre 400 here.
First utilised in the Aquis collection, the calibre 400 series is now being rolled out into other collections including the Big Crown Pointer Date (in the form of the calibre 403). More about this watch later on.
The calibre 400 has raised the bar and set what what Oris describe as ‘The New Standard’.
Guide to Oris Watches: 5 Key Oris Collections You Need To Know About
So how has all this heritage and innovation evolved into the collection we see today? Here are the five key Oris collections you need to know about.
Aquis
Aquis is one of the world’s most recognisable diver’s watches. The Aquis’s roots go back to the 1960’s when Oris made its first diver’s watch. While the plexiglass crystals and 30-metre water resistance of those first models look dated now, at the time, they were welcomed by the diving community – and an Oris tradition was born. The current generation Aquis stems from the Oris Full Steel, created in 1998. Read more about the history of the Aquis in our article.
When Oris developed the ground-breaking Calibre 400 in 2020, it’s hardly surprising that the iconic Aquis was chosen as the first watch to showcase the new movement.
Oris Big Crown
Arguably the most iconic Oris model, the Big Crown was launched in 1938. Designed to be operated by pilots with gloved hands, the crown is oversized to ensure firm grip. The Oris Big Crown is instantly recognisable with its fluted bezel and lume-filled cathedral style hands. Similarly, a pointer date with red crescent tip, arabic dial printing and a railroad minute track are also integral to its DNA. Over the years the Big Crown has evolved with a variety of dial executions, straps and most recently editions in bronze.
However, this year Oris has made the greatest change to the Big Crown. Recognising that even its signature design needs to move with the times, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Calibre 403 movement is overhauled aesthetically as well as technologically. Firstly, with straight hands replacing the cathedral hands, a red arrow tip also replaces the famous crescent of the pointer date hand. Secondly, a polished bezel replaces the fluted bezel, giving the watch a more modern look and feel. Inside the calibre 403 provides the watch with small seconds as well as pointer date functions. Also, it has an incredible 5-day power reserve and accuracy of -3/+5 seconds a day – which would comfortably pass chronometer testing.
Divers Sixty-Five
The Divers Sixty-Five is based on Oris’s iconic 1965 divers watch. Although the aesthetic is vintage, the collection is engineered using state-of-the-art manufacturing techniques. Case diameters vary from 38mm – 42mm. Whilst the dial layout remains constant, many dial options are available including blue, green, brown and black. Equipped with a precision Oris 733 automatic movement with red rotor, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five has a 38 hour power reserve. In addition it is water resistant to 10 bars (100m) and has an easy grip screw-down crown. Similarly, the caseback also screws-in and has special engraved detailing.
ProPilot
Oris has a history of producing pilots watches that goes back to before WWII. However, ProPilot is a new generation of elite pilot watches aimed at pilots who value the ProPilot’s cockpit-ready functionality and aesthetic. With their clear, arabic dial and case diameter from 41mm-44mm+, the ProPilot is designed to be legible. A distinctive fluted bezel is also integral to its DNA. The Big Date and Big Day/Date models are very popular with GMT and World Timer executions also available. Launched in 2022, ProPilot X is equipped with the new Calibre 400.
Rectangular
Launched in 2022, Rectangular is a collection of classical timepieces with a definite Art Deco influence. Equipped with a precision Oris 561 automatic movement, the Oris Rectangular has a 38 hour power reserve. In addition it is water resistant to 3 bars (30m). The see-through caseback is secured with screws and allows a fantastic view of the movement in action. Finally, plain leather straps complement the dials in green, red, blue and yellow. Fitted with quick release spring bars, it is quick and easy to exchange it for an alternative colour. Discover more here.
Guide to Oris Watches: Change For The Better
No Guide to Oris Watches would be complete without highlighting the brand’s current ‘Change For the Bettter’ campaign. Already a climate neutral company, in 2022, Oris published its first ever Sustainability Report. Every year, for the next three years, Oris plans to reduce its carbon emissions by 10 per cent and the report clearly lays out how they plan to achieve this. You have to hand it to Oris: there aren’t many other watch brands leading the way towards sustainability so transparently. What started as raising funds for environmental projects and organising Beach Clean days has evolved into a wholesale movement for change.
Oris is already replacing virgin materials with recycled or upcycled alternatives. From here, they will further reduce environmental impact by increasing the use of sustainable materials in their watches and packaging. Watches such as the Aquis Date Upcycle utilise recycled PET plastic to create beautiful, unique dials (no two are the same). Similarly, a collaboration with sustainable deer leather manufacturer Cervo Volante, has resulted in a range of Big Crown watches using leather that would otherwise be burned.
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Photo credits: www.oris.ch
