Guide to the Best Metals and Materials for Watches: From Precious Metals to Alloys

This Guide to the Best Metals and Materials for Watches will help you understand the difference between the precious metals and alloys used in watch cases and bracelets. Also, if you’re stuck in acronym hell, you’ll discover how to pinpoint the differences between PVD, IP and 316L.

Choosing the correct metal or composite material is the first stage in selecting the most appropriate watch for you. Considering that many people suffer from skin allergies, it’s important to know what you are putting next to your skin. Furthermore, the case and caseback won’t necessarily be made from the same material. Therefore, it’s a good idea to double check the specifications list before adding any watch to your basket.

 

Guide to the Best Metals and Materials for Watches: Precious Metals & Alloys

Stainless Steel  316L Grade

Stainless Steel is the most popular material for watch cases and bracelets. However, not all stainless steel is equal. 316L grade stainless steel is a precious metal. Also, it is known as medical grade or marine grade stainless steel. It is harder than lower grades of steel as it is alloyed (or combined) with molybdenum to lower its risk of corrosion. The L simply stands for lower carbon than 316 grade. This grade of steel is pretty much a benchmark for what is acceptable for items like jewellery and watches that are in contact with the skin. Very expensive watches utilise higher grades of stainless steel such as 904L. The main difference is that they have a higher level of resistance to corrosion. View Stainless Steel Watches here.

Seiko SRPL13K1 Prospex 4R black Shog-urai diver watch
Seiko SRPL13K1 Prospex 4R black Shog-urai diver watch with Stainless Steel Case and Bracelet

Titanium

Titanium is a great option for anyone looking for a hypoallergenic watch. A pure metal, rather than an alloy, Titanium is found within the earth’s crust. Therefore it doesn’t contain any traces of nickel. Titanium is less reflective than stainless steel and is also less than half the weight. The reason for this is that it has a lower density. Furthermore, it has less chance of corrosion. Titanium is stronger than stainless steel (although it is more prone to scratching) and dent-resistant. Of course all of these benefits come at a price. Therefore, you should expect to pay around double the price for Titanium v’s Stainless Steel. View Titanium Watches here.

Citizen CA4610-85M Forza Super Titanium chronograph light blue dial watch
The Citizen CA4610-85M Forza Super Titanium chronograph watch with light blue dial

Bronze

Bronze is a copper-based metal. Also, it ages over time with a beautiful patina that gives each watch a distinct, vintage look. Resistant to seawater corrosion, bronze is often used in divers watches. Moreover, Bronze has seen a resurgence in popularity in recent years with new models launched by Oris and MeisterSinger amongst others. Discover Bronze Watches here.

Bulova MIL-SHIPS Rose Gold Tone Bronze Special Edition Green 98A324
Bulova MIL-SHIPS Special Edition Green with Rose Gold Tone Bronze Case

Guide to the Best Metals and Materials for Watches: Ceramic, PVD, IP & DLC

Ceramic

Ceramic is not a metal. It’s made by melting and cooling chemicals then milling them into shape. The advantage of ceramic is that it is four times harder than stainless steel and is lightweight. Moreover, ceramic can be polished to create a metal-like sheen. Also, it’s resistant to ultraviolet rays. Therefore the colour won’t fade. Finally, like Titanium, ceramic is hypoallergenic. However, it is brittle and can chip if it sustains an impact. Ceramic is used to give watches a contemporary feel. View Ceramic Watches here.

Oris Aquis Date Green 41.5mm 01 733 7787 4157-07 8 22 04PEB
The Oris Aquis Date 41.5mm green watch with Ceramic bezel

PVD

If you’re looking for a warmer tone metal for your watch and solid gold is out of your budget, a coating of gold on a base metal such as stainless steel gives the same effect but for a fraction of the price.

Physical Vapour Distribution or PVD is the process of applying a very fine layer of condensed material onto a watch case by turning it into vapor which creates an even coating when applied. As the layer forms, it reverts back to its original condensed state and increases its hardness. View Gold Tone PVD Watches here.

Herbelin 10630BP59 Galet 31.5mm silver dial gold tone bracelet watch
Herbelin Galet watch with yellow gold tone PVD stainless steel case and bracelet

IP

Ion Plating or IP is a type of PVD, that uses a scientific process called sputtering to create the layer of material. Perhaps the watch you have your eye on is gold plated. How long will the plating last? It all depends on what the base metal is and how thick the plating is. The closer the base metal is to gold, the better the coating will be. For instance, silver is better than copper, 9ct is better than silver and so on. The attraction of the two elements occurs as the gold that forms the plating is electrically charged with positive ions and the item to be plated has negative ions. Discover ion plated watches here.

Mondaine A660.30360.60SBS Classic 40mm forest green strap watch
Mondaine Classic 40mm watch with matte gold IP stainless steel case

DLC

Flawless black or coloured finishes are often achieved using the PVD method to create a Diamond Like Carbon or DLC top coating. This is a thin layer of carbon in different compositions. It adopts some of the qualities of diamond – the hardest substance on earth. As with any other of the coating methods, a DLC layer can be highly polished, left matt or textured. View DLC Watches here.

Muhle Glashutte M1-41-83-KB Sea Timer Black Motion watch
The Muhle Glashutte Sea Timer Black Motion watch with black rubber strap and black DLC coated folding clasp

Whichever material you choose for your watch, you will find an unrivalled selection at watchspecialists.com, all supplied by our Independent Watch Specialists. All watches are available with free UK delivery. Best of all, every sale through our website supports a family owned, UK tax-paying business. Support the High Street and shop with us today!